The sun-kissed Valais region in the Swiss Alps is ripe for exploration what with its lush countryside, snow-capped mountains and magnificent alpine lakes. It truly is a hikers paradise with more than 8,000 kilometres of marked trails. Our trek to the strikingly beautiful Lac Bleu of Arolla took us through the forest, which is home to red squirrels, marmosets and chamois (goat-like antelope) while offering the most breathtaking scenery.
At the base of the Dent Blanche mountains (4,357 metres) lies the valley of Val d’Hérens. It’s home to the highest gravity dam in the world, unspoiled mountain peaks and ancient villages made from sun-darkened wood. Around 500 kilometres of footpaths wind around the valley making it a favourite for the likes of mountaineers, cyclists and horse riders. The region is also known for the Hérens cows which are a unique breed known for having a wild temperament.
Although you can get to Lac Bleu from Arolla on a gentle path via Pramousse it’s said to take an hour and a half. We opted for the shorter but steeper route from La Gouille. With it being ten minutes drive from where we were staying in Les Haudères, it was closer than Arolla. The route is clearly signposted from the road and there’s parking nearby – we were there in August and had no trouble finding a space.
It’s said the average time it takes to trek from La Gouille to Lac Bleu is 40 minutes. If you’re walking with young kids, it’s at least double this. The path is easy to follow from the outset but it is a mountain so it’s steep in places. We stopped several times along the way and with no signposts en route, it’s difficult to work out how far you have to go. Comfortable footwear is an absolute must and we wouldn’t recommend this trek for children below the age of eight, unless you hike regularly and allow ample time.
The trek through the forest beneath the enormous larch, or conifer, trees is beautiful. We got to see a couple of red squirrels after a relatively short period. While we didn’t see any marmosets or chamois, the sound of the grasshoppers is astounding. There must be hundreds of them, judging by the chirping, along with plenty of butterflies and brightly coloured caterpillars. As you’d expect, the scenery became all the more dramatic the higher we trekked.
Following a particularly steep section with skinny paths we stopped for a rest before continuing our trek. A few hikers passed us on their way down, telling us we only had another 15 minutes to go. That spurred us on and rather handily resulted in locating a clear water stream from which to replenish our water supply. While we’d not normally recommend doing this, it looked and smelt alright plus we were in Evian country. The route to Lac Bleu is easy to follow so we continued upward taking in the views until we heard what sounded like water and a horn.
We had made it to Lac Bleu! Remarkably on the crest of a hill, overlooking the turquoise water, was a Swiss hornblower. It was one of those surreal moments and strangely emotional (perhaps it was the hike up that did that!). Here we were in the middle of nowhere watching a chap blow a giant horn, the sound echoing around the mountains. It was pretty special and I’m glad I made the effort up that little hill to see what was going on. He chatted to a few of us and sang a bit before heading off with his backpack, the horn slung over his shoulder.
The Lac Bleu of Arolla sits high in the Val d’Hérens (over 2,000 metres) and it really is stunning – totally worth the hike up! It’s fed by fast-flowing water from a spring up the hillside – the colour due to the algae and glacial clays. There are a few picnic tables dotted around or you can just do what we did and pop down your picnic mat. With the water coming from a glacier, it is far too cold to swim in but a rather nice way to cool down hot feet.
We stayed here for a time before heading back down the way we’d come. Unsurprisingly the route to La Gouille was much quicker and we were back at the car fairly swiftly. We had exhausted our food and drink supply so if you do this trek, make sure you beef up your supplies especially if you’re walking in peak season when it’s warmer. Lac Bleu is beautiful and probably one of the highlights from our trip so certainly worthwhile doing if you’re in the Valais region.
